Strut Data
According to the Mitsubishi EPC there are six different struts for the Pajero iO - here they are along with the years they fit, and the Tokico equivalent. If I can locate any other aftermarket equivalents, I will also add the information - KYB numbers added, Koni insert details added.
1998.05.1 - 1998.09.2 - MR319792 - Tokico B3311 - KYB 334442 - Gabriel G54268 - or in Europe KYB 334813
1998.09.3 - 1999.07.3 - MR455401 - Tokico B3311 - KYB 334442 - Gabriel G54268 - or in Europe KYB 334813
1999.08.1 - 1999.09.3 - MR519093 - see note.
1999.10.1 - 2000.04.3 - MR519092 - Tokico B3312 - KYB 334405
2000.05.1 - 2001.09.1 - MR554614 - Tokico B3312 - KYB 334405
2001.09.2 - 2007.06.3 - MR992092 - Tokico B3312 - KYB 334405
Note - depending on whose catalogue you're looking at the MR519093 strut can be found cross referenced to both of the replacement numbers - forum member HAD-Z has a JDM iO with the MR519093 strut and has measured it as a high pan strut.
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Koni does an insert for the front struts - part no 8640-1459 - which comes with the following note - for original APA-KYB struts only - excl. KYB OEM no. MR319792 & MR455401.
My interpretation is that this insert can only be used with OEM struts excluding MR319792 & MR455401 - it is believed that the diameter of the insert is what prevents it from being fitted and it may or may not be coincidental that these are both low pan struts.
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Measuring from the bottom of the strut to the "pan weld"...
Approx 245mm is a "low pan" strut
Approx 265mm is a "high pan" strut
Claud's measurements
Claud has measured the strut on his 2002 iO from the top down, and unfortunately we can't be sure where the top of the tape is - looks about 267mm to the bottom of the strut - maybe Claud can re-measure for us and also tell us what strut we are looking at.
fordem's measurement.
My picture was a poor quality cell camera snap, so I will retake it and post it here - editing this post if I can - anyone else who cares to can also measure their struts, perhaps take pictures so we know how the measurements were taken and also let us know what year iO and/or part number strut - let's find out which years had longer struts.
MR319792 - This is "low pan"
OK - I think we can conclude that there are at least two different lengths of strut - I know this has been mentioned before, but I have seen contradicting posts in the different threads, and we now have the pictures to prove it.
The local KYB dealer is bringing struts & shocks for the iO, but whilst I know the KYB part number, I have no idea what length those will be until they get here - so if anyone has KYB struts the would care to photograph & measure and post the details along with the part numbers, I would certainly appreciate it, and I'm sure so would the other folks here.
KYB 334405
I got this detail from the local distributor - I sent her the pic showing where to measure and she measured up one they have on the shelf.
The exact measurement from the bottom of the clevis to the bottom of the spring pan weld is 273mm, or from the weld under the spring pan to the centre of the lower bolt hole is 263mm. As some shocks can have a different shape spring pan and clevis mount I’ve also taken the measurement from the centre of the lower mount bolt hole to under the spring pan base – lowest point it is 276mm.
So for me this would give an extra 30mm - I'm going to measure my wheels again but I think it should be enough.
I don't know if that's bad news or good ...
KYB 334405 is what my dealer is bringing - and based on what you're saying, that's the "long" strut - the "bad" is it won't match my (I suspect tired & sagging) springs, the "good" is, I believe I know where to source new KYB springs to match them.
334405 lift
Are you thinking that a higher strut pan means shorter spring is needed? I would be aiming to keep the standard spring to get 30 mm of lift and then add spacers or new springs to the rear. Maybe this strut has a longer shock insert so you don't even lose downwards travel.
Exactly.
With the increased length between the knuckle & the spring seat, the new strut with the original spring will give a higher ride height - that may be what you desire, but it's something I neither need nor really want.
My first requirement is to fix the "wander" which I'm convinced is related to the camber change, and that is most likely related to the sagging spring, my second is to get rid of the "nose dive" on braking, which is either caused by the strut or the spring - I do not need an increased ride height, and would be very unhappy if I ended maxing out the strut's travel. What I really need is the spring & the strut to match each other.
The only thing I can do right now is hunt down suppliers and gather information - sorting out the suspension on this vehicle is "next year's project" - the next thing in the pipe line here is fitting OME's to my Grand Vitara, I have the rears on a shelf and the fronts are probably in a container in Miami, which will hopefully sail this weekend. If all goes well, the iO will be sorted before mid next year.
If OME had the kit for the iO, that's what would be going under it, but alas, they don't - my second option would have been Monroe Adventure series, they only do a rear, no front and KYB seems to have it all - front & rear, shocks, struts, springs, boots, mounts.
Fair enough
Fair enough, it's easy to forget we're not all after increased lift...
Your camber issue is perplexing - you started with positive camber which shouldn't be there. You got your camber back with the camver bolts, but this may be addressing only a symptom, not the cause, and could cause other symptoms (like the wandering). Sagging springs may be another problem you have, but as you said not likely to be the cause of the camber being out as logic says it would have the opposite effect. So isn't it likely that there is something different going on that is the cause of the camber issue, and if you don't find and fix that then any other changes such as the KYBs could have unpredictable results.
You obviously know your way around a set of spanners, probably more than me, but I wonder if you're focusing too much on these springs as the cause of your problem? What else could have caused the positive camber?
You started out saying you'd
You started out saying you'd measured your camber at -0.30, which is negative, but only just, and more than a degree more positive than mine.
Mine is low mileage, has had two lady owners, tyre wear is even, steering is stable, body height is same both sides, and judging by the complete lack of gravel and other muck underneath when I bought it had never been off road. If anything it suffers from slight understeer, but that's typical for a vehicle that's not road-performance oriented. The camber I measured is identical both sides. So basically I think the camber on mine of -1.5 is more likely factory-correct than yours. So I'd still say your camber (before adjusting with cam bolts) is more positive than it should be, and it would not be this way because of sagging springs.
I think there's been a misunderstanding somewhere.
You started out saying you'd measured your camber at -0.30, which is negative, but only just, and more than a degree more positive than mine.
Mine is low mileage, has had two lady owners, tyre wear is even, steering is stable, body height is same both sides, and judging by the complete lack of gravel and other muck underneath when I bought it had never been off road. If anything it suffers from slight understeer, but that's typical for a vehicle that's not road-performance oriented. The camber I measured is identical both sides. So basically I think the camber on mine of -1.5 is more likely factory-correct than yours. So I'd still say your camber (before adjusting with cam bolts) is more positive than it should be, and it would not be this way because of sagging springs.
I don't recall saying I'd measured my camber at -0.30 - in fact, I never measured it prior to fitting the camber bolts - I don't need to measure it to know that if I can see it negative "with the naked eye" that it's more negative than it should be for a "road going" vehicle - by the way - the same goes for positive camber - if you can see a tilt either positive or negative on the front tires of a vehicle, with the tires in the straight ahead postion, that vehicle probably has a suspension problem.
The confusion here may have started when you mentioned your vehicle having positive camber, which is a little unusual, and the change in camber with a change in ride height, and I questioned the figures relative to the "stock" figures.
As a general rule - I think you'll find most vehicles intended for normal use have the camber very close to 0, typically no more than half to one degree, higher performance vehicles tend toward negative camber as this increases adhesion in a turn, and very few have postive camber - if your's does, and it is at the standard ride height, I'd say you have a problem.
Strut
Fordem, I don't mean disrespect here, and I know you are not going to like the following :(
Didn't you wrote somewhere that your 19 years old daughter is driviing the io? You wrote that you know that your strut are worn, or on the way out, that your car is "wandering", that the nose is diving under brake, and you are going to wait till mid next year to fix the problem???? Would you drive the io without brakes?
From what I have been reading you are, at the very least, a very good mechanic, and it should take you 2 hours to replace them with one hand in your back. Replace them, and see how it goes for the rest. , stop focussing on the camber, it might be a problem but it doesn't make your car unsafe. But once you replace the strut your car will be safe, and the nose dive and the wandering will be gone
Of course your io might be lock, unused in the garage...
I repeat myself, I don't mean disrespect,
Happy io.
ClaudFirst - I understand
Claud
First - I understand where you're coming from - the suspension on a vehicle is what keeps the tires in contact with the road, and as such it's very important to the safe operation of the vehicle - if the tires do not remain in contact with the road, then both steering & brakes are impaired.
Second - it's not as simple as spending a couple of hours to fix it - it's not a situation where I can go down to the dealer and pick up the parts that are needed - they are not available - if they were I would probably have already purchased them - no one here has front struts to fit the iO, I have to wait for them to be ordered and shipped in.
Last but not least - my 19 year old is at university in Florida and the car is here in Guyana - I'm the person whose driving it, when it gets driven - she is home for Christmas, and her preference is her brother's Suzuki Swift (if he'll let her drive it), followed by my GV, both of which are in pristine condition - the iO was acquired earlier this year to fill a gap, which it has filled, and is now actually surplus to my needs, so I can afford to "wait a while" before fixing it.
Camber again
Hi, Where I got the camber from was the first post of the first link you put up earlier where you said " using a 24" level and high school math, I estimate it to be equal on both sides (it wasn't before) and to be - 0* 30'." It doesn't matter, but that's where it came from.
All I know about camber is from road and tarmac rally cars (I run -3.5 to 4.0 on the fronts of my tarmac rally prepped 944, a bit less on the rears). I know zip about what a 4x4 should be set up with for off road though and am interested to learn more about that. As mine is used a lot on the road I don't think I'd like any less -ve as it understeers enough already, but if there's a compromise needed for on road / off road use I'm keen to understand what that's about.
I am sorry for confusing things up front by saying +ve when I should have said -ve - I guess I was in a hurry. I reposted when I realised because I was worried this wrong information might have caused you problems in sorting out your issue there.
Anyways.... no harm done, all information shared is useful, I've done another measure up of my standard and Kumho wheels this afternoon and I'm 99% sure these KYB struts will give me the clearance I need :). Keep us posted on how you get on.
Cheers
Camber
Hi, Where I got the camber from was the first post of the first link you put up earlier where you said " using a 24" level and high school math, I estimate it to be equal on both sides (it wasn't before) and to be - 0* 30'." It doesn't matter, but that's where it came from.
That was after I'd fitted the camber bolts - it was more negative and I reduced it with the camber bolts.
As far as camber for 4WDs, I would suggest sticking with the factory settings unless you're setting it up with a specific purpose in mind, in which case I'm not going to make suggestions as I'm pretty certain that the specific settings will vary from vehicle to vehicle, and perhaps track to track - for road use vehicles the setting is usually a compromise between handling & tire life, and as you move more towards perfomance you also move away from tire life - as is probably the case with your Porsche - off road use is probably less critical since with the suspension travel the camber is in a constant state of change.
Spring height
Ok, so we know that the later model has the spring pan approx 15-20mm higher, the old springs might be longer to compensate or the strut towers might be a tad taller in the new models.
If someone does akyb job on an older model please post if you gained lift overall as running older springs on newer struts could be a great passive lift technique.
Thanks
How's your russian...
Here's the translated version of what may, or may not be useful information about struts
It includes this image which looks to be for a KYB Exel-G № 334 368 , which as far as I can work out is supposed to be for a Mitsi Outlander.
looks good!
so against the io old struts the outlander appears to have more height and the same compression aka longer travel - could be an excelent swap!
I'm keen to compare the kyb replacement strut for the outlander vs the newer io's, if it gives 40mm more length it is an easy lift option for the newer io's that allows standard springs and no loss in droop.
Springs
Im wondering if the newer cars like yours have shorter springs than early ones. I didn't like how much preload I had to put on my standard (early) springs to get them onto the higher spring pan - maybe when they raised the spring pan they shortened the spring?
I'm also looking at the outlander dimensions now and thinking it might have been a better option - the longer travel would mean less preload and a bit ore height would level the front up better to my raised (Mazda sprung) rear.
.
I was thinking the two might be just too small, the sleeves come with O-rings to slife over the strut first to fill the gap. Ill have a good think about it before I go ordereding anything.
Between which part of the strut? Right now I might have just under 2" untill I hit the pan. Although Ill buy some thinner springs and cut back the pan if I go this way.
coilovers
The gap might not matter for you if the bottom of the coilover sleeves are at the spring pan base and so higher than your current tyres. When I was looking at this option with my lower spring pan I figured I would have the coilover sleeve down far enough to possibly rub on the inside tyre wall of larger tyres.
.
I was also considering the idea of just getting 350mm springs insted of 300 and doing away with the adjustable sleeve to stay with. But I am assuming the pan wont keen the much smaller spring centre and will just slide it to one side.
I am also having issues finding a suitable koni insert. The longest insert I can find is the 8611-1258, and with it installed into the io strut the minimum amount, I would end up with pretty much the exact measurements and stroke in every as as the stock strut. You can really boost the insert out further for more hieight as some lumps at the top of the insert need to be inside the stock. Am I missing something here.....
Koni insert part number
Thanks for that, close call between the 2" and 2.5" sleeves then. Anyone know of an australian store that sells the koni inserts?
If yo manage to get the Koni insert please let me know what the part number is. Ive contacted our local Koni supplier many time but im at a point to swear at him because he is so bloody STUPID. I sent him a mail with a screen print from the Koni website showing the part number but he still does not know what is happening.
strut size
I have been chasing some kony insert for my io, I don't think that I am going to do them now but much later...
Anyway, I just got told to check the diameter of the strut, apparently Mitsubishi made 2 sizes, one a bit over 51 mm, like mine, but there is a smaller version as well !! I got quoted around $550 for a pair but they couldn't tell me the max, mim lengh.
Happy io.
This is a copy of Fab27's post
I've taken the liberty of copying Fab27's post - since it's relevant to this thread.
Hello again.
For those of you that want to see the difference between the old MR455401 (1999 5 door) strut against the new 334405 KYB strut with the higher spring pan...well here it is.
strut ref
Yes, but they are not the same strut either !
If you check Fordem first posting where he cross ref many strut reference number and the thread here http://pajerio.com/forum/kingspring-and-kyb-mix you will find that the 334813 have the lower spring plate lower than the 334405. This is not a problem if it is already what you have on your car and want to keep the standard tyre size but you won't be able to fit the 225/75/16 as an example.
Happy io
So, no KYB for Europe?
So, there's no "long" KYB for Europe market? Also, if you enter all the criteria for Mitsubishi Shogun Pinin 2004 2.0 on website you'll get this result. Do they give us the wrong pair of shocks? 'cause in this case there's a problem to sell a wrong product and not the good one.
I have the long struts already, just looking for a pair of "fresh" ones and also a pair of longer coils to match them.
It's my understanding ...
that all the Pinins were built in Italy, and used the "low pan" struts, regardless of year, so KYB Europe does not carry the "high pan" struts - this may (or may not) become an issue for people with "grey market" imports, which could have either style of strut.
Your previous posts show you have a Shogun Pinin Elegance, which suggests it is not a grey market - check the strut body, if it is the original it will have the Mitsubishi part number stamped on it, post it, and let's see what we can come up with.
Measurement and strut no.
that all the Pinins were built in Italy, and used the "low pan" struts, regardless of year, so KYB Europe does not carry the "high pan" struts - this may (or may not) become an issue for people with "grey market" imports, which could have either style of strut.
Your previous posts show you have a Shogun Pinin Elegance, which suggests it is not a grey market - check the strut body, if it is the original it will have the Mitsubishi part number stamped on it, post it, and let's see what we can come up with.
I am on holidays this week. After next week I'll check the strut no. and see exactly from where I can start with a SL (struts and coils) even though I've read most of the topics regarding suspension lift I'm still confused 
( my knowledge about mechanics and Pinin improve daily, thanks to this beautiful forum ).
Regards,
Cristian
I just ended up putting on
I just ended up putting on 2005 X-trail rear struts on the front of my 99mod 5 door. The bottom pan is higher than the high pan iO strut and gives me more droop and I used the iO's spring and top pan. Works good and haven't had any problems as yet.
If you still haven't got the
If you still haven't got the wandering sorted out look a the toe on the car because that will cause it everytime. Not only camber matters but also toe and it will grab the grooves in the road and follow them. Once you get camber and toe sorted you will find a huge difference. I do all my wheel alignments and don't have a problem.
Not certain why we're discussing wandering
in the strut data thread, but I'll add one more possible cause to the list - tired sagging springs.
When I bought my iO, the steering was quite vague, the car went in the general direction it was pointed in, but the steering wheel never seemed to return to the same "straight ahead" position after negotiating a corner.
Despite a thorough check of all the bushes etc., I could find no evidence of play or wear - I did note that there was quite a bit of negative camber on the front wheels (enough to be visible to the "naked eye") and after several weeks, discovered, quite by accident, that, with the car at rest, the front control arms were a very different angles with respect the surface the car was parked on.
It turned out that the right front spring had sagged considerably so that that corner of the car was quite a bit lower than the left front - as the suspension moves up (car moves down) the control arm sits closer to horizontal and pushes the bottom of the wheel out, and that changes the camber, which in turn affects how the vehicle tracks, especially when the camber on the two wheels is not the same.
Part of the wandering problem was also caused by the "degree of sag" changing as the car was driven - a left turn would increase the negative camber on the right wheel and vice versa.
A replacement set of springs (and struts) cured all of these ills, and whilst there was little visible difference between the old & new springs, it was actually possible to feel the difference in them by grabbing a few coils ad squeezing them with your hands - the iO has a large diameter, long (free length), relatively soft spring.
I did a search on my 2001 5dr
I did a search on my 2001 5dr and it says my front has number MR353742, so I guess mine has the lower since the alternative parts aren't the same as the ones known to have higher springarm. I haven't been measurring since it's awfull weather outside
Hang on a second
Are you looking at the correct end of the car - this thread is on the FRONT struts - but what you have pictured is the REAR shock absorber.
I also don't know where those cross reference numbers come from - but they are definitely not correct - the Monroe number is a "pin & eye" shock, and our cars use a shock with two eyes, and the KYB number is a strut part number, not a shock.
Syndicate
Granthem's measurement.
Granthem measured the strut on his 2002 iO from the bottom up - looks like 267 mm to the pan weld. Maybe you'd like to tell us which strut you have - if it's the original, there will be a number stamped into the body of the strut somewhere.