Lift options & Tires sizes, Look here first
Thanks BOB. The reason I
Thanks BOB. The reason I raise this is that when I went to the tyre retailer (In Perth) to buy tyres, the retailers 400 page guide book, which includes rules, regualtions and all vehicle types, lists the IO under the softroader section. Having read the regulations I agree with you that it is not. In respect to the tyre sizes I was thinking about the 215/75 or 235/70. The 235/70 seems a better option. Have you ever experienced any contact with the wheel arch or any other part of the body.
Thanks and Regards.
tyre contact
I run 225 75 16 but on fto rims which are half an inch wider and offset outwards a quarter inch. Outlander rims are the same. Never had any contact whatsoever.
If you can pick up a set of the 16x6.5 +38 outlander rims or fto rims they are worth it. Lancer 6.5 rims are all +46and a tad too close for my liking as I run snow chains sometimes.
Hey Bob I was looking at a
Hey Bob I was looking at a set of outlander rims also but 17's and I agree the offset is better and the rims for not any other purpose on the car look better and very interested in getting some. The wreckers near me have a set for $200 with A/T tyres on them.
softroader
Softroader ....lol...
Tyres sizes do change from brand to brand. What I mean is that the same 225/75/16 can have some difference in size from different tyre manufacturer. What I can say is that I have the 225/75/16 Km2 and the only section of "contact" is again the chassis rail in full lock. After around 40 000kms with them, to me, this is not a problem, see picture below. As for regulation....your responsibility....fully.
I have the original rim.
Tyres is, again to me, one of the most important "modification" to any 4x4. It doesn't matter if you have twin turbo, load of torque, twin diff lock....with no grip you won't even get out of a wet lawn !!
Softroader.....:)
Happy io
The mark of the left is from my old 215/70/16 both are a bit mixed up really!), the one on the right is from the actual 225/75/16 km2
Hi everybody- new springs
Hi everybody, recently got myself a 1999 1.8l
And just installed new suspention! thought i would share the details.
I got Dobbinson springs with kyb shocks, set me back $600
Installed them myself Rear was easy as. Front was a bit more tricky but not hard. Just use good spring compressors, not crap ones like I did.
Box says 30mm lift but its sitting at 45-50mm. im guessing theyl shink down once I where them in a bit.
Part no's Front : springs: C43-240 struts: 334405. Rear: springs: C43-115 shocks: 343408
Next on the list is new tyers
!!! the weight of that tyre
!!! the weight of that tyre is 30Kg + at least 14Kg the wheel + 3kg the spacer= at least 47kg !!! that's a lot of weight for just 33" diameter hope axles and transmission holds...
the rear axle needs still lot of changes but... GO GO GO !!! :)
Hi all, Ok so i'm new to
Hi all,
Ok so i'm new to pinins but am keen to learn, after having mine for just over a week i've already managed to whack a crossmember off a nasty stone and decided to lift it, the last few days where spent trawling the internet for ways to do this and almost every search has led me to here, anyway my question is will getting the kyb strut with the higher pan(as mine is a 2005, 5 door warrior with the lower strut pan at the front) along with wheel spacers to take the wheels out a bit let me put bigger tyres on getting me more hight. i mean is it that simple or are there things i need to consider? also would i be able to keep the stock springs or would that be putting them under to much pre tension?
Cheers
lift
OK,
If you have the old style low-spring-pan front struts you can put your existing springs into the new high-pan KYP struts no worries. Your standard springs a re long and soft so give you a lift but retain ride comfort.
you can re-use your rear springs with spacers if you want or fit lifted springs.
once you have lifted you can easily run 225/75-16 tyres that are 1" larger in radius and give a 1" lift.
if you can, try and track down some airtreck/outlander rims as they are 6.5" wide and offset outwards slightly, more stable than the 6" standard io rims.
lift
not at all,,
the spring lift gives you actual height under the front crossmember, as does fitting bigger tyres, as does any of the spring spacers.
i have 50-70mm lifted rear springs that helps lift the body up away from the ground and 30mm front spring lift with a 20mm strut spacer that gives about 60mm total lift.
When i run 225/75-16 tyres the body is lifted a further 25mm up away from the ground causing about 8cm more clearance under the front, 9cm extra clearance under the middle crossmember compared to standard.
(small tyres fitted below)
spacers?
ok this is a good start!
did you make the spacers your self? if so what kind of size are they? width-hight?
was looking at some nylon 6 to make my own but not sure how much i'd need.
i also got hold of some 16" wheels today as mine has 18" on the now-bloody usless for anythng of the tarmac!
looking into getting some A/T tyres for the 16"
also hows the angles for your shafts? did you drop the diff at all?
again thanks! p.s dont know why my postes are coming up twice??
245/70/16 Maxxis Bighorn, your thought...
As most of you know I have the BFG KM2 225/75/16, and I am very happy with them but they are nearly worn out and have been looking for other option.
I thought of getting something wider, maybe the Maxxis Bighorn 245/70/16
I now that strut and wheel will be a problem but I will adjust/replace those if I get these tyres.
Any input ? Thanks
Happy io
Bolts for spacers
Hi Guys,
I am also busy lifting my io - can you help please?
1) I made spacers for the front struts and want to install them this weekend - do you know what length the current bolts (or studs?) are that hold the strut top to the body? I want to get bolts the same length longer as my spacers
2) Since I slapped in some Astina springs in the rear my driver side sits a bit lower. I have swapped the shocks and then springs but it still remains lower. Therefore I assume it can only be the panhard rod pulling the driver side of the rear axle closer to the body? Has anyone installed a bracket to make it a bit higher? Any pics/drawings very welcome :)
Happy io
half an inch...
The studs in the strut mount are approximately 1/2" long and pressed nto the mount.
The panhard rod should not hold one side of the car lower, it will pull the axle sideways - did you loosen ALL the pivot bolts before installing the longer springs?
When installing a suspension lift it's important that ALL the pivot bolts (in this case there are four on each side of the rear axle, plus the two for the panhard rod) be loosened before the lift and then tightened with the vehicle back on it's wheels - this lets the bushes settle into a "natural" position with the vehicle at it's new ride height - if it's not done, you can end up in the situation you're in, and it eventually destroys the bushes.
Thx Fordem
Do you need to use studs or will bolts suffice? What size bolts is it? (eg. m8...)
With pivot bolts are you refering to the bolts through the rear trailing arm busshes and the panhard rod bushes? In that case can I just park the car on level ground, loosen them all slightly, shake the car bit (so it settles). and then retighten?
Btw, congrats to all the Ausies on the forum for thrashing England :)
Yup
Do you need to use studs or will bolts suffice? What size bolts is it? (eg. m8...)
If you use bolts you're going to need long arms, an assistant, or both, to reassemble the vehicle.
With pivot bolts are you refering to the bolts through the rear trailing arm busshes and the panhard rod bushes? In that case can I just park the car on level ground, loosen them all slightly, shake the car bit (so it settles). and then retighten?
That should do it.
Where are you measuring this 10mm difference?
Where are you measuring this 10mm difference?
If it were a spring related issue and you swapped the springs, then the difference should have swapped sides, but not necessarily been corrected, if it doesn't swap with the springs, then something is bent somewhere, and the implications will vary depending on what it is.
Do you have before & after measurements - on all four corners?
When I got my iO the entire right side of the car was 10mm lower than the left, due to a sagging right front spring - it may sound strange, but as the right front corner droops, the left rear will rise correspondingly, the entire vehicle has to be considered as a whole.
makes sense
Thx Fordem, you are right - the difference that not swap sides but the right hand side remained 10mm lowers.
I did not write down the measurements and also haven't measure the front wheel ardches. I will measure again tonight and check the front wheel arches. A quick glance does make it look slightly lower on one side.
Can you do me favour and check how many turns your front coils have? I suspect I have the shorter coils in and want to replace them anyways with the longer ones.
(I suspect the previous owner had put the lower strut pan strut with the shorter coil....idiot. So far I have put the higher strut pan in but the front is still quite low)
Definitely lower on the front left
So I check on a flat surface (didn't have my measuring tape unfortunately) - the front right wheelarch is about 10mm lower than the front left wheelarch
I also checked again and it seems my front coils only has 4 or 4.5 turns in the front coils - so I definetly have the shorter coils
Next steps:
-Get longer coils from old io model
-Install longer coils and 26mm spacers
Front coil query
Good day,
I contacted a scrapyard that sell mitsubishi parts and it seems they do have coils from a 1.8l io. I just like to make sure I get the right ones - can you help me with the following questions:
-Do the 1.8l and the 2.0l come out with the same coils?
-Does anyone have a part number for the longer coils?
Happy io
coil
From memory you are in South Africa. In Australia I understand that we have 2 type of strut (I think that you understood that) but you can have a 1.8 litre and the 2 litre with either spring. So yes they can be the same but it will mainly depend of the strut they have. The change of strut (and spring) was done by a date more than by engine size....I think !!! The earlier io have the longer spring.
So be careful that you do not buy what you already have. I do not have the ref number. I couldn't see one stamped on the spring anyway.
Happy io
Ok guy's I think I have found
Ok guy's I think I have found a salution to our problem with lifting the front 50mm. on our iO's.
I went to the wreckers today for and looked and looked some more and found that the rear struts off a 2005 Nissan X-trail will fit and give 50mm lift and able more room for larger tyres as well. I have drawn up a couple of diagrams with sizes to show you all. Let me know what you all think and if it will work.
KF65....great work. By this
KF65....great work.
By this I'm assuming that not only is the strut tube longer (eg: lift) but the strut rod is longer too giving more much needed droop.
The io strut in your comparison....Is that the newer (longer) type or the older shorter type?
Also...... I reckon you'd need to start considering at which point the drive shaft CV's start running out of working angle. I know I'm pretty close to that by using the longer io struts, standard (short strut) coil springs and 50mm strut top spacers. Anymore and I reckon I'd have to drop my front cross member/diff which I'm not willing to do. (Concerns with reliability).
Fab.
Hi Fab, not sure if the iO
Hi Fab, not sure if the iO strut is the shorter one or not but all I can tell you is that there the ones that are on mine ATM. But i am happy I came across the Nissan ones. Will only be 2 things to do to get them on like I mentioned above and gaining 50mm lift without having to put spacers between the body.
And not to mention again being able to put larger tyres on again without hitting the lower pan for the springs, I was running 225/75/16 before and now gone back to standard roady's for now.
Going back Monday to get them as I got kicked out on Sat because they were closing and they wanted to home apparently, Lol.
Maybe someone could measure theirs and compare to mine that way we might find out., mine is a 99 mod, manual, 1.8ltr.
nissan strut
This strut is very close to the high spring plate io, just about 10 mm difference. Your strut on your io is the older type. Still interesting to do a bit more research, like the travel and if it have an inset made for them, or even the spring size.
Happy io
Spring diameter appears very close to that of the iO
My daughter drives an 03 XTrail (NT30, same as the 05) and the car was here yesterday, so I took a look - at first glance, the XTrail rear spring appears to have a smaller diameter than the iO front, but, a crude measurement with a piece of hacksaw blade, says they will interchange.
A little research shows the XTrail rear spring should have a 160 in-lb spring rate, the iO apparently has 150 in-lb front springs, the big difference however, is the free length - as far as I can tell the XTrail spring has a free length of approximately 310mm, and the iO is closer to 390mm.
What do you mean about free
What do you mean about free length ? Is that the distance between the top and bottom spring cups while complete but out of the car or jacked up with wheels off the ground. I will be taking one of my off today and checking the travel of shock then going back to the wreckers and do the same with that and see what the difference is. Those measurments I have written down on that diagram is with the struts complete and still on the car but wheels off the ground and the x-trail was longer in the spring.
Free length
Free length is the length of the spring removed from the vehicle - so to speak, free from any restraint - there is no way to determine free length whilst the springs are installed.
The XTrail free length is an estimate based on the OME specifications, the iO free length is a measurement made on springs that I removed from my vehicle - the iO uses what I would describe as an unusually long, large diameter spring, with a low spring rate - I can hold them in my hands and compress them, something I have been unable to do with any other vehicle springs.
Sounds like the old 85 toyota
Sounds like the old 85 toyota corona wagon springs they had on the rear, they were weak as and I had to upgrade to heavy duty on that.
Like i said I will take mine out and measure them and see what mine end up being. And then go and check these x-trail ones. Will let you guys know the outcome this arfo hopefully.
What are the outlander struts like, they have 17inch wheels on them so they must be a higher strut ? I will see if I can find them and measure them and see what the difference is.
Ok I went to another wreckers
Ok I went to another wreckers today pulled off a set of struts from a x-trail and noticed that the top of the spring was only 140mm across and the mounting bracket on top is different to the iO and the distance between the holes for the bolts BUT I did work out however that if you leave the whole strut and spring complete and drill 3 new mounting holes for the x-trail strut (as per picture above)from under the wheel arch then it will go straight on and the only other thing is the 2x3mm to take up the gap for the main bolts on the bottom.
My springs when I took them off and measured them were only 370 not 390 but my shocks are competely gone, they have No rebound in them what so ever and the right hand side of my car is lower by about 12mm on front and 15 on rear.
If you look at the measurments there is about 50mm more travel on the x-trail shocks when extended but same as iO when pushed in so I don't know how much difference it will make to the cv's when extended to full length.
I will have to go back to the other wreckers tomorrow because I am sure the springs were the same size on top as the bottom was, maybe it was a 2002mod and not a later one ??
springs
The damping may be an issue - it is set based on vehicle mass over that axle - not spring stiffness, what would the back of an Xtrail weigh compared to the front of an io? the engine will impact alot in the weight.
are the spring plates offset on the xtrail to allow for the minimal inside clearance with the strut tower?
could be a good mod if the damping is suitable - i recon it could be too light and they will behave like shagged io struts.
maybe a mazda tribune etc front set of struts?
Don't they put springs in and
Don't they put springs in and allow for load in the back ? I got the struts today and going to put the iO springs on and top pan as the x-trail doesn't have the bearing on top for stearing as they are rear. The iO springs are way bigger in length but have a lighter load rating.
Bob with the iO's high pan strut which is 20mm higher from bottom to pan is there much more overall length to them apart from that 20mm ?
The reason I ask is that there is a set of high pan at the wreckers on a 2000 mod iO so allowing for higher tyres do they give any xtra length in the spring area so the car is higher.
I will be trying the front springs on the x-trail struts tomorrow and hope they fit alright. I only paid $60 for the 2 of them.
.
[quote=kf65]
Don't they put springs in and allow for load in the back ?
Yes they should have, IMO
Bob with the iO's high pan strut which is 20mm higher from bottom to pan is there much more overall length to them apart from that 20mm ?
No, they have the same overall length
The reason I ask is that there is a set of high pan at the wreckers on a 2000 mod iO so allowing for higher tyres do they give any xtra length in the spring area so the car is higher.
No, the spring is shorter in the high pan strut.
Happy io
struts
the old style pre 99 io struts and the post 2000 struts are identical with one change, the lower spring perch is welded on 20-25mm higher on the tube.
total stroke of the strut is the same.
to compensate the newer io coil springs have about 1 turn less and are approx 20mm shorter.
I am running some 1999 1.6L front coils in the new struts and have aprox 30mm lift compared to standard, added a 20mm spacer that resulted in approx 45mm lift total.
Dup post
Duplicate post removed